• 作者： 趙承琛; 陳治貞; 塗令娟
• 作者服務機構： 國立成功大學化學系
• 中文摘要： At the present time, two types ofpolyester fibres are being made inTaiwan, i.e.,（a)-condensation polymeri-zation of ethylene glycol and tere-phthalic acid, and (b) ethylene glycoland dimethyl :terephthalate. Becausethere are neither hydrophilic nor reac-tive groups in the chemical structureof polyester, in the industrial dyeingprocess the disperse dyestuff is usuallyused under high temperature and pre-ssure. Various surfactants are frequent-1y used as dyeing auxiliaries due totheir dispersion, weiting, and migrationeffects on the dyeing. In this study, more than seventykinds of surfactants were examined bythe following tests:(A) Dispersion test: The dispersion of an aqueous solu- tion of disperse dyestuff was tes- ted by measuring its transmittance with Bausch＆Lomb Spectronic 20 before and after the centrifugation. The effect of a dyeing auxiliary was then tested by the same pro- cedure. The lower is the transmittance, the better is the dispersion.(B) Wetting test: A piece of clean cloth（1 x 20 cm ) with constant weight was tightened on a glass bar (3.4 mm in diameter). The glass bar was then carefully withdrawn; the cylindrical- cloth with 1.59 cm in, diameter was obtain- ed. The cylindrical cloth so obtain- ed was then placed vertically on the surface of the solution to be tested．The time between ,the cloth contacting and leaving the surface of the solution was measured as the wetting time. The shorter is the time; the better is the wetting ability.(C）Dyeing test: The dyein g' test was carried out in the dyeing .machine under high temperature（130℃) and pressure. a. Preliminary test: The procedure of dyeing and the composition of dye solution were tested by varying the type and quantity of -dyestuffs or dyeing auxiliaries. b L.eveling effect of dyeing auxi- liaries: Using the inferior dyestuff cho- sen from preliminary test, the dyeing tests were carried out with various surfactants or their mixtures. Leveling effect of dyeing auxiliaries was measured from this test. c. Migration effect of dyeing au- xiliaries: Two pieces of cloths, undyed and dyed, were treated in the solution of surfactant used as dyeing auxiliary.（D）Color-fastness test: The color-fastness of dyed cloths were entrusted to China Textiles Industrial Research Centre.
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