- 作者: 郭金棟; 黃煌煇
- 作者服務機構: 國立成功大學
- 中文摘要: 本文係研究波浪由深海傳播至淺海之過程中遭遇到同方向或反方向之水流後波高變化之過程,波浪則引用有限振幅波理論之Stokes波第三近似解及Iwagaki之Hyper-bolic wave理論,而流水則假設為均勻流速之理想流,然後假借能量保存原理推演出波高變化之理論方程式,經由電子計算機之計算算出各種比流量參數q/gZT3下不同性質之波浪尖銳度Ho/Lo在各種相對水深h /Lo時之淺化係H/Ho同時利用循環水流水槽,從事實驗印證理論之正確性。 由理論分析得知;波浪與水流同向時,流速即流量愈大波浪減衰愈快,反向水流時,流速愈大波高愈大,同時碎波愈早,實驗結果亦印證理論之正確性。
- 英文摘要: This paper is concerned with the chang of finite wave height moving inchannel or inlet of shallow water, where a current runs directly with, oragainst the advancing waves. The change in wave height encounter acurrent were derived by means of energy conservation equation which waspresented by Longuet-Higgins and stewart. The stokes wave of the 3rd orderapproximation and 2nd order Hyperbolic wave theory were used forcalculation. Results show that the effect of a following current is to decreasewave height, and the effect of an opposing current is to increase the waveheight. The results of calculation have been plotted in figures for practicalapplication.
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